My travel companions all received their new German names on the first day of our adventure together. While my friend Herbie poured us champagne out of the back of his van in the train station, Marianne, Johanna, Heidi and Gabriele munched on cheese sandwiches.
After checking into our lovely hotel in Bad Kissingen, we all opted for an incredible foot treatment atthe Chinese wellness center across the street. The evening finished off with Schnitzel, potaoto salad and Franconian Domina (that's a red wine grape!) at Rudi and Charlotte's Restaurant "Weinstube Hoffmann".
Bad Kissingen is not on the usual list of places to in Germany, however it is one of the most beautiful spa towns in Germany. It's all about the water ....and the wine of course... Franconia is well known for it's quality red and whites. We all tried the water in the the largest "Wandelhalle" in Europe, where once Emperor's and Queens came for the water's healing properties.
Kissalis, a huge modern structure, houses and amazing water park. No not the kind with slides and swings, but a one acre indoor/outdoor pool with jets and fountains going off in every corner, sauna land, a spa where we indulged in mudpacks and goatbutter treatments, we slithered out of there totally relaxed. Dinner that evening at beautiful Schloss Salleck along with all the German friends. The highlight for me was gooseliver terrine with a very thin layer of Vhalrona dark chocolate which imparted an ever so slight delicious taste of cocoa on the terrine.
The next day, after a brisk walk through the 'Kurgarten" a vast array of trails and paths, a a walking labyrinth, a Kneipp water facility, a sound meditation garden and an old salt mine that is now used for inhalation, we drove off to Schloss Sommerhausen, an ancient castle with a winery. The 3 hour private tour and tasting in the cellar of their sparkling and white wines was not only informative, but nothing short of amazing, especially since Herr Buettner, the young sales manager spoke impecccable English and just so cute to look at!
Day 4, it's (finally) raining as everyone expected. Herbie is driving us towards the Blackforest. The autobahn is jammed, but not to worry, his lovely wife Elizabeth has chilled champagne, sandwiches and chocolate to keep us happy and relaxed...yes it's legal for everyone to drink in the car, except the driver. Herbie opted for a quick espresso stop. Espresso and related coffeedrinks, seems like to me, have almost taken over beer as the national beverage, it's available everywhere, even at the autobahn rest stop.
Our destination is Hotel Sonnenalm, a traditional ans so comfortable inn in the small village of Todtnauberg near the highest mountain of the Blackforest. Herr and Frau Brenner run it meticulously and he cooks a great, ample, three course dinner for his guests every night.
By now I have to remind the girls that they are on a culinary adventure and to keep eating!
Guilt is partially relieved the next day on our lenthy hike around the valley's rim, glorious sunshine and forever views all the to the Swiss Alps and France. At the end our afternoon coffee and tea accompanied by fabulous cakes at the "Gloecklihof" a local farmhouse/cafeand a visit to the local glass blowing factory and shop.
Otto Brenner's "Flaedli Soup", pork medallions with potatoes and a cheese plate strengthened us for the next adventure. That evening we all met in one of the rooms, where Johanna and Heidi desperately tried to unload their duty free purchase of vodka on us.. with good success!
More wine awaits as we head towards the "Kaiserstuhl" (Emperor's Chair") the hilly wine region outside of Freiburg, known for very good Pinot Noirs and Pinot Gris. Just across the Rhine river, a few miles west lies Alsace Lorraine, famous for it's dry, complex Gewuerztraminers and German/French cuisine. We visit Colmar, a beautiful Alsation town, and Breisach on the German side. There we climb up the hill to the St. Stefan Cathedral with it's amazing Riemenschneider Altar and views all the way to the Vosges Mountains.
We have dinner at a "Staussenwirtschaft", well you have to be there to understand what it's like, basically a small winery who is legally only allowed to serve their own wine and homemade food to the public only about three months out of the year. Well worth the wait, the wine is so good and the food just like eating at a rural family home. The next night we dine and wine taste at the country restaurant of our Hotel "Schwarzer Adler". in Oberbergen. This Hotel and winery is known for having one of the largest and greatest Bordeaux selections in Europe as well as their own wines and many of the region. The world is truly small, as we head up to our rooms late evening we meet a local Central Coast winemaker, Jim Clendenen in this little village. he was attending a winemaker dinner that evening with other local and Swiss Pinot producers. To our enjoyment we were invited to taste all the wines, rarely tasted Pinot so fabulous!
Our last stop Freiburg is where I lost the girls, forget culture, art, food, wine, it was all about the shopping now, well ok, we did break it up with fair amounts of wine and cheese....just can't walk by those cheese shops and their intoxicating smells wafting out the door! To everyone's credit they did agree to hike through the forest that runs right through this vibrant city and visit the daily farmer's market. We had arrived in sausage heaven...there is nothing better at noon when the church bells ring than a sausage from the Freiburg market with lots of sauteed onions and mustard on a crunchy roll!! The Freiburg cathedral has what is known as "the most beautiful tower of Christianity". we climed the 200 and some stairs up the to be right up there at noon when the giant bells ring. The grnadeur of the tower and the bells is so moving it's hard for me to hold back tears even now, just remembering the feeling.
A few tears were shed the last day as the girls departed, tears of joy or maybe exhaustion from all the fun? I'm sure lifelong friendships and beatuiful memories of our trip to Germany were formed and I am almost certain everyone will want to return?
I am grateful to have had such a fun group join me on this journey.
